Ok we've had a number of people wanting to know how to switch over to their shiny new DX6i's so here we go.
OK what's in the box
A nice transmitter and receiver some batteries and a bind plug.
(if you were expecting anything different you will be disappointed)
The receivers are clearly labelled, unlike the E-Sky ones
Here we have the AR6200 and the AR7000 side by side, quite a size difference too.
Weight wise the DX6i weighs in at 0.74kg and the DX7 a little heavier at 0.82kg.
First thoughts when taking the DX6i out of the box, was it felt rather plasticy compared with the DX7, but after holding both for a while it actually felt more robust than the DX7 and felt like it would come out better in an "Oops I dropped it" competition..
Holding them in flying position I still prefer the DX7's moulding at the back as it make it nice and comfortable to hold without feeling like you are going to drop it.
All in all a rather nice transmitter so far.
The DX6i is powered by four AA batteries and has a charging point so rechargeable batteries can be used.
BE VARY CAREFUL when recharging batteries while they are in the transmitter as they can over charge and melt the plastic.
I did this with the Walkera 52 and was very lucky not to have more damage than there was.
Far safer using a charger designed to charge AA batteries and then carry a spare set just in case.
The DX7 has a rechargeable battery pack installed but you will need the charger (Heliguy supply the charger with the TX).
The Dx6i has a trainer socket too.
The menu system is accessed via the roller switch on the right.
Push to select and roll left or right to highlight choices, took me a while but I soon got the hang of it.
When you first switch on you will need to select the helicopter mode.
Then select the model number and give it a name.
A quick run through the setup options.
Model name.
Monitor allows you to see each channels movement.
Reverse, this is where you reverse the direction of your servos if needs be.
Swash type, the DX6i has only the two settings single servo (falcon 3d) or ccpm 120 degrees (Belt CP King 2etc).
Throttle cut if you have a nitro and want to switch off a perfectly good engine......pfft (c;
D/R combi is for dual rates ( don't ask me I dunno) (c:
This timer option is very handy for timing your flights so that you don't over work your batteries.
The default setting is for the trainer switch to start and stop the timer.
I thought that the trainer switch may catch on something mid flight and decided to use the throttle cut button.
Just don't forget to set it to a realistic time.
Oh and don't forget to push the button when you plug the battery in and fly.
OK now onto setting it all up.
First we will have to remove the old TX and aerial etc.
Don't worry about what wires went where I'm positive you will never put it back into your Belt.
Right positioning the TX is easy, it goes at the back.
upside down view.
The satellite RX goes towards the front. Don't tie it too tight!
I moved my ESC to the other side
Nice and tidy.
The AR7000 is slightly bigger so can be mounted in the same place but with the wires easier to get at.
Oh before we go any farther I found a great use for your old aerial wire tube.
Cut it into small bits about 30mm long.
Then using a bit of heat shrink attach them over the aerial wires, this protects the cable from damage.
OK back to the Belt....
Now the hardest thing to do now is plug in the servos.....
This servo, front right is the Elevator servo.
This one, rear right is the pitch servo or AUX1 on the RX.
This leaves the rear left servo which is the Aileron servo.
The wire from the gyro goes into the rudder slot on the RX (position 4)
If you have a head hold gyro then the single cable goes into the GEAR channel on the RX.
Now before you go any further I would recommend disconnecting the motor.
It saves visits to A&E.
Right once the motor is safe we can connect a power source to the receiver and fly away......
At this point you may be wondering why nothing is happening.
This is the clever bit, the RX will only take commands from a TX that it has been bound to,
and even then only if the model name etc matches.
So if you get that little plastic plug marked "bind plug" and pop it into the slot marked
power or bind.
Next we have to have three hands!
First you hold the trainer switch towards you while you switch on the TX.
Then we connect power to the RX.
The LED's will flash while they are in bind mode and then go solid when they are locked.
The DX7 comes with a switched lead to enable binding using a separate 7.4volt supply.
OK so now we have the helicopter powered and responding to the TX.
Let it settle down and make sure all the controls and trims are at zero.
This is where it can be confusing as the controls don't operate as you are used to (c:
The best way is to start from scratch. Helicopter tail towards you for reference.
Set to 120 Degree swash ccpm.
1: sort the servo direction with reverse setting, nor rev etc.
Front servo Elevator, swash down at the front when you push right stick forward.
Aieleron left servo, swash plate tilts to the right with right rightstick .
Pitch right servo, swash plate tilts to left with left rightstick.
2: sort the swash direction.
This can seem weird as you can get the servos moving the right way, but then the swash plate goes up instead of down, then you get that sorted and the roll is reversed!
SO...
First set swash mix to +60 for all three servos.
Get the servos moving the swash plate the right way for forward and left and right, by using the reverse section.
Then if the swashplate goes down when you increase the throttle, just set the pitch to the negative value to what it was. ie set pitch to -60 in the swash mix section, leaving the others where they are.
Change the pitch setting in the swash mix untill you have your desired pitch range.The higher the value the higher the range, try setting it to 0 and see what happens.
If you have to alter the Aieleron setting to change the pitch then you have the servos in the wrong rx slot. ie pitch and aieleron need to be swapped.
Sorted ?
Since we have the motor disconnected we can check the servo arms.
Set throttle to 50% and give them a check.
If the swash plate does not do what it should then maybe the swash mix needs looking at.
With the above settings and the reverse settings like this (note the aile is reversed)
All should be well, however if you find that the throttle/pitch is reversed.
ie. the swash goes down instead of up, or that it twists the swash plate then we need to alter some settings.
Firstly try altering the reverse settings of the servos to match the above pictures.
If you find that doing that reverses control then we need to alter the swash mix.
Here is a shot of the mix for my Honey Bee King 2.
Notice that the Aileron and Pitch are + and the Elevator is -.
it works but the servos are wrong.
OK additional information here
To set up the swash and pitch.
1: disconnect motor.
2: Take rotor head off.
3: In idle upor throttle hold:
4: Throttle to 50%
5: Adjust servo arms to 90 degrees
5a: By moving the servo arm on the servo first.
5b: Then by using the sub trim on the TX.
6: Level the swashplate mechanically by adjusting the connector rods.
7: DO NOT ADJUST SUB TRIMS once swash is level (yet).
8: Replace rotor head.
9: Set pitch gauge to 0 degrees.
10 Adjust swash to rotor head linkages mechanicaly until you have 0 degrees pitch.
11: Measure MAX pitch.
12: Measure MIN pitch.
13: if the pitch range is low then INCREASE the pitch setting in the swash mix
14: if the pitch range is high then DECREASE the pitch setting in the swash mix
The Gyro
The Gyro is controlled via the flap/gyro switch.
If you have a head hold gyro you can now alter the gain via the TX.
With the switch towards you, the arrow moves to the bottom number, position 1.
With the switch away from you, the arrow moves to the top number, position 0.
This can then be altered to adjust the gain of the gyro. So position 1 is head hold and position 0 rate mode.
Throttle hold:
Next is a very very handy switch.
The throttle hold switch, this is the safety switch for plugging in your battery to the helicopter, USE IT!
It does exactly what it says on the tin erm switch, switches off the throttle to the motor.
Here we see the throttle hold curve or flat line to be more precise.
Pitch curves:
Pitch curves can be set in the throttle hold position which makes it perfect for setting up swash plate etc (I would still unplug the motor wires) the default setting of straight line is spot on.
Pitch curves can be set for both positions too but for now we will make them both the same.
The default settings can be used but I prefer to use a shallower curve for pitch so that I have more positive pitch at a lower throttle position.
This means I can land the helicopter gently rather than throwing it at the deck.
Here I have set the pitch to 35% at the low point (zero throttle) and made it a straight line from there up to 100%
This means I have less negative pitch to start with.
Less pitch and a higher head speed make it easier on the motor and battery.
Throttle curves:
OK there is still an idle up switch on the TX although this time we can control it.
The throttle curve can be altered to suit your flying style etc, but since we are still learning I suggest we have this switch set with identical settings.
so position 0, normal as below. 0 to 100% throttle.
Then position 1, stunt mode exactly the same. 0 to 100%.
Now if we operate the
What you now have to watch for, and I did this with my Honey Bee King 2, is that if you have the throttle hold switch on and set the throttle stick to 100%, to check your pitch etc.
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T SWITCH OFF THE THROTTLE HOLD WITH THE THROTTLE AT 100%!
It not only makes a mess of your helicopter (indoors) but it really makes you jump.
The only difference I can see here between the DX6i and the DX7 is that the DX7 allows you to have exponential set up on the pitch and throttle curve, this means you get a smoother curve.
Once you get into 3D flight you will need to change the settings for idle up to set different pitch and throttle curves to enable you to fly 3D.
I haven't touched on mixing as I am not 100% sure of what it does or can do.
All in all a great transmitter with most of it's big brothers bells and whistles, for the price a great step up into programmable transmitters.
One good thing about the Spektrum transmitters is that if you forget to switch on the TX and inadvertently connect the battery to your helicopter, nothing happens!
A nice fail safe feature that I have been thankful of at least twice!
Anything I have missed out or anything you are unsure of let me know.
If I don't know then we will both learn something when I find out.
Have fun and fly safe!
Gary.
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Last edited by Anti_A on Thu May 22, 2008 7:44 pm; edited 2 times in total
