This is a simple guide to assemble the CNC Tail as when I put mine together I could not find anything online for the King 2, only for the Belt CP which has a slightly different Tail Box and so fell into a few traps.
I have labelled the Parts in Pic.1 so you know which one I mean. Now first thing to carefully check is that the parts have been put together the right way, this is the second time I’ve done this manual as after finishing it the first time I noticed that the bearing in the Right Hand Plate #2 had been put in from the wrong side during Factory Assembly so I had put it together completely wrong with the wider flanges of the bearings to the outside whereas they should be on the inside.
I hope you appreciate that I have now pulled my tail section to bits TWICE! now to get these pics LOL.
Anyway if the bearing is in from the wrong side (See Pics Below, Look carefully at holes) you will have to very carefully press it out (I used a small Rollpin the same size as the outer part of the bearing and a ring spanner behind it in a vice to carefully push it out)
First take the Collar that goes onto the Tail Boom #1
The Right Hand Plate #2 (Has 3 holes in it, the same as the Right Side of the Boom Collar, the screws feed into top 2 holes) Insert Small Silver Pin #4a a little into bottom hole and fit right plate onto pin. Now take the “L” Bracket #3 and the 2 longer screws #4
Apply a TINY AMOUNT of Loctite to screws and attach the “L” bracket through the Right Plate (Ensure wider part of Bearing Flange is facing IN) with the “L” shaped part sticking out at the bottom. (See Pic.2)
(Don’t know what you call it where you are but in New Zealand we call it Loctite, others may call it Thread Lock.) I have found it is better to put the Loctite near the head of the screw instead of the end as it will still hold but will be easier to dis-assemble if necessary.
You can put a Soldering Iron onto the head of the screw and it will help loosen the Loctite.
Next take the small coloured tube #5 and 1 of the shorter screws #6, apply a little Loctite and screw to side plate.
Now if you haven’t already done so loosen the Tail Boom screws, and push it forward to loosen the Drive Belt (You may need to unscrew the front of the Tail Boom Support Rods) then remove and dis-assemble your old Tailbox as you will need some of the parts from there, mostly the Belt Pulley and Shaft (Don’t losen the Washers on the Shaft) the Tail Pitch Lever on the bottom, the Pitch Pushbar with the little Pushrod Ends that clip onto the Balls of the Blade Grip Assembly (See down further on how to mod these so the work better)
MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE DRIVE BELT THE RIGHT WAY WHEN YOU REMOVE ALL THE OTHER PARTS. Rotate the Belt until you can see the writing as it is a better reference point.
Now take the parts you have assembled and carefully fit onto the Tail Boom ensuring you pull through the Drive Belt and push the assembly forward until it locates against the flange inside the Collar and fix it to the Boom with screw #7. (Look from behind and visually align with the plate for the Gyro etc. and Right Angled to the Mast) You may need to recheck this once fully assembled.
Next you have to take the Main Shaft the Drive Belt Pulley #14 with plastic spacer, add a packing washer and the flanged washer #10 with the raised part facing out and insert them through the inside of the Drive Belt and Right Hand Plate (you may need to flick the Belt over onto the Pulley with a small screwdriver)
Also check rotation is correct, should be rotating the Tail Pulley Clockwise if looking at the tail from the left side (the side you have inserted the Pulley Shaft from) The belt should be coming out of Tail Boom and over the top when spinning the Main Head and Syncro Belt Pulley Clockwise if looking from the top (See Pic.5)
Before putting on the other side plate ensure you have put on a packing washer and the flanged washer (Same as #10) with the raised part facing out as well.
So now take the Left Hand Plate #8 and ensuring the wider Bearing Flange is facing IN screw it to the side with 3 more #6 screws after applying a little Loctite.
Next we take the Tail Pitch Lever #15 and Pushbar Assembly #16 (Ensure you have removed the small brass Collar Tube #18 from the plastic pin that the Tail Pitch Lever was mounted on, on the old Tailbox as you will need this (See Pic.7) also remember to re attach Pushrod Ends #17 back onto the Pushbar (See Below for Mod Section now if you haven’t done it yet otherwise you will probably just have to pull it apart again)
Slide the Pushbar Assembly onto the shaft with Pushrod ends facing out and taking screw #9 and the Collared Washer #10 attach the Tail Pitch Lever onto the bottom of the “L” shaped bar ensuring you put the small brass Collar Tube into the hole of the Tail Pitch Lever and the raised ridge of the Collared Washer is toward the Tube not the screw head.
Use a little Loctite and adjust the tightness of the screw so the Tail Pitch Leaver moves freely. If you hadn’t Modded the Tail Pitch Lever parts as shown below there would be a tight spot with the movement on the Main Shaft as it pushes the Pushbar back and forth as the mount point for the Tail Pitch Lever seems to be a fraction closer to the Shaft.
Hopefully they will be releasing this product here soon, Which is a Ball Raced CNC version of the Pushbar. If you can get one then use that instead as with it being Ball Raced there will be less friction.
Next we assemble the CNC Blade Holder and this is where I completely got it wrong.
The holes that the screws go through to attach the Blades were threaded on the side they go through from (Well on my one they were anyway) not the back surface it screws into as I assumed it would have WRONG.
(Never ASSUME as it makes an ASS out of U and ME).
If you put it together the way I did you will find when you fly your chopper it will spin and spin, and did I mention it will SPIN and SPIN as it is pitching the Blades the wrong way.
OHH WELL I LEARNT THE HARD WAY.
(See Pic.10 / 11 for a clearer understanding of how it goes together.)
Make sure the Control Ball Arms are LEADING the Blades not FOLLOWING the Blades.
Secure the Blades with screws and nuts #11 and #12 making sure you don’t over tighten them as the Blades should be able to move if they strike something, like the ground when landing (Or if you come down at the last second and land to close to the fence, or garden hose on the ground, or one of your kids toys LOL) not that I would do that – HONEST.
Once assembled put the Blade Holder Assembly onto the main shaft and put in the grub screw #13 then clip on the Control Rod End from the Pushbar.
Last of all screw the Servo Pushrod back onto the Tail Pitch Lever, and if you haven’t done so already and you’re wondering where the 2 extra screws go reattach the front of the Tail Boom Support Rods after tensioning the Belt and tightening the screws for the Boom.
Now all you have to do is adjust the Servo placement on the Boom so the Pitch of the Tail Blades are correct and the heli stays flying strait. (Recheck Tail Shaft is at right angle to Mast)
Well Campers I hope this has helped you assemble the Tail Box now with a better understanding than what I had when doing mine, of what you are supposed to do. I do hope you have appreciated the fact I actually had to pull mine completely apart again TWICE! to take the pics LOL
WARNING! DON’T USE TOO MUCH LOCTITE.
I had to cut a slot on one of the screws to get it out as I had used to much, remember what I said about putting it near the head and not the tip of the screw.
Hope this hasn’t been to long winded I have tried to be as informative as possible and please excuse any bad grammar (English wasn’t my best subject at school)
If you were wondering what the slight white discoloration is on some of the parts in the pics, I used some CRC Dryglide with Teflon in it to lubricate the parts as it reduces friction without attracting the dust etc.
Mark Bixley
Napier, New Zealand
weety1@hotmail.com
Most of the pics on here were taken by me but feel free to copy them and use them and I wrote the entire guide myself (TWICE) So please give credit for my work if you replicate these pics or guide anywhere else, thanks to those who have put up some of the other pics I have - Ahem! borrowed LOL.
PS. I am a Newbie to RC Heli’s (Hence the slight grass stains on the Tail Blades) so please don’t flame me if you are more experienced and do something different to what I do.
I found how to do part of this on a few WebPages ages ago but can’t find the pages again so credit to the guys that wrote those forum messages.
The first thing we have to do is burr out the Top Guide Fork and Bottom Hole on the Tail Pitch Lever (See Pics.16/17)
Use a small file or drill bit to oval out the hole on the bottom and to make the slot of the top fork slightly deeper. The yellow half circles around the pins are where the hole and slot originally were and the Red is where I filed them out to. (Sorry I’m not brilliant with Photoshop, but I did my best) This allows the Pushbar to move freely on the Main Shaft without binding (You should see what I mean when you try it yourself.)
The next thing to do is to take the Pushbar and round out one side of the holes on the side that the Pushrod Ends screw onto (See Pic.16 For an idea of what I mean, marked by Red Lines) Don’t go all the way through.
Next take the pushrod ends and file a slight bevel on the end that the screw goes into (Marked by yellow lines, you can see the right hand Pushrod End in the pic leaning over already)
This is so that when it flexes over it doesn’t have a fulcrum effect. (Why we are doing this is because as the Pitch Arms rotate toward the Tail, they get closer together and it will allow the Pushrod ends to move with them instead of flexing the whole Pushbar (Try it and see how it bows if you haven’t done this mod yet) which puts extra strain on the Servo, Plus it gives you a better distance of travel in the Pitch Control.
When you screw back on the Pushrod Ends don’t do the screws up to tight and when it comes to clip them onto the balls of the Pitch Arms make sure the beveled side is toward the centre.
I have included a few other pics of how I have made up my Battery Mount and the placement of the ESC underneath it where the battery normally goes, I also had to make up a new mounting plate and packers for when I fitted my Outrunner Brushless Motor as it needs to sit about 4 – 5mm higher. Also with the 14t Pinion I have on I also had to round out the hole and file a little away down through in front of where the pinion sits or it will rub against the sidewall and doesn’t fit through the hole.
You may also notice that I butchered my old stuffed ESC to make and adapter cable so I can just plug the smaller batteries straight instead of having to put new plug ends on them all. (See bottom of Pic.20)
I am also going make a sling to hang the bigger sized 2000mah batteries underneath so I don’t have to remove the other Battery Mount.
If you want any info on these, message me and I’ll send you some better pics and ideas.
Cheers for reading and if you want me to E-Mail you a Microsft Word version of the Guide with higher quality Pics or if you have any comments then E-Mail me on the address I gave further up or PM me here.
a big CHEERS go out to user MARTIA (Andrew Martin) who helped with posting this as he had to put in some work to resizing some of the pics for me then puting it up
Mark
MOD EDIT, Flossie: This is a Great Guide on how to fit the CNC Parts. I`ll add this to the King Compliations sticky thread. Well Done.
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Ever been in an Iriquoi (Huey) and had to make someone spew inside their jumper so it dont hit the windscreen? MMMMM
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My Pic is me in an Australian Blackhawk
Last edited by Weetbix on Fri Apr 18, 2008 6:09 am; edited 6 times in total
