Please note all of these pictures are copyrighted and to use them on another website is theft, permission must be obtained.
Please do NOT throw away your CP2 packaging box as your power adapter and canopy pin and stored at the bottom of the box and can be easily overlooked
Below are the inputs for a CP2 4 in 1 (ESC)
Gain Adjustments:-
The Gyro Gain is adjusted if the tail seems out of control and wobbling from side to side a slightly (Hunting) decrease the Gyro Gain (Anti clockwise)
If however the tail moves at a more rapid rate and wobble then increase the Gyro Gain (Clockwise)
Tail Motor Gain (proportional Trimmer)
The Tail Motor Gain only needs to be adjusted if the rotation of the tail motor is too much more than needed to counter the torque of the main blades (Anticlockwise)
If the tail motor rotates too slow to counter the torque of the main blades then adjust (Clockwise)
Any adjustments must be made with the battery disconnected from the helicopter.
Close up of the above.
Tail Motor
Main Motor
Opposite side of the 4 in 1
The rear (aileron) servo marked with a L connects to CH6
The servo (Collective) marked R connects to CH1
The single servo (elevator) connects to CH2
The Batt and CH5 are not used.
This is what you should have.
Transmitter Settings:- New Transmitter Settings:-
AIL=Down (Normal) Ail=Down (Normal)
ELE=UP (Reversed) Ele=Up (Reversed)
THR=Down (Normal) Thr=Up (Reversed)
RUD=UP (Reversed) Rud=Up (Reversed)
Exploded View of the honeyBee CP2:-
Click on the thumbnail then zoom in.
Parts List one:-
Parts List two:-
Heliguy CP2 spares
Tail Rotor and Motor:- General guidance.
Click to enlarge:-
Please check these screws on a regular basis as they can be hard to find they are m1 x 2.5.
Always check that the rubber tubing is firmly in place before each flight
Rotor Head:-
The red dot is indicating the vertical throttle trim and until you gain more experience it should always be set as marked.
The other trims should all be centre or neutral again until you have the experience to find you own position that suits you.
The red dot on the picture below is where your switches should be.
AIL=nor (Normal)
ELE=Rev (Reversed)
THR=Nor (Normal)
RUD= (Reversed)
For the new Tx's they should be set to:-
New Transmitter Settings:-
Ail=Down (Normal)
Ele=Up (Reversed)
Thr=Up (Reversed)
Rud=Up (Reversed)
DO NOT adjust the settings on the transmitter while your helicopter is powered up!
Always make sure the crystal is firmly pushed in:-
The LED readout is very accurate for a receiver in this range but never depend on it, replace the batteries when only two lights are lit, better still replace them when there are only three, that way, you can be sure you have enough power left when you need it.
Battery Charging
Connect the power adapter to an AC power socket and the black jack to the charger.
Connect the battery lead to the socket marked by the RED arrow in the picture below.
Both the RED and the GREEN led will glow this is indicating that you have power and that the battery is charging.
Once fully charged the GREEN led will go out and the RED led will glow constant to indicate that power is present as shown in the picture below.
Please observe the correct polarity when connecting to a mobile battery (Car battery etc).
Secure your battery with either the elastic bands provide or better still hair bobbles as elastic bands have a nasty habit of drying out and crumbling!
You always should check the battery carefully and make sure it is ok and not damaged before and after every (no bulges or dents) Especially if you have any kind crash or hard landing.
Checking the Centre of Gravity
If the nose of the helicopter dips forward then carefully move the battery toward the rear of the helicopter.
Blade Tracking (Wooden Blades)
If your blades are not balanced properly you just can't expect it to fly properly don't assume they are balanced it takes seconds to check and less than a few minutes to balance.
Below is a picture of what badly tracked blades looks like:-
Click to enlarge:-
To adjust your blades once you have established they are out is easy just follow the pictures below and repeat on each blade as required.
Some people use the red and white bits of tape on the blades to see which one is tracking higher, but I think a sideway glance at the blades on medium RPM after each small adjustment will let you know if your on the right track, KEEP you face at least 2ft away
Only a slight movement is needed, sometimes no more than a 16th of a turn.
Ok the next stage is to see if your adjustments have resulted in your blades being correctly balanced.
With your battery now connected and your throttle set at about 50% you should have your blades set as pictured below.
If not then simply adjust the links until they are correct.
Please use a as guide only, there are many post regarding the setup of the CP2 within this forum.
Swashplate Adjustment:-
Guide Only
Please use in conjunction with This One
After your blades have been balanced it's time to move onto your swashplate, ideally the top and bottom gaps should be the same.
To do this your blades should be set at neutral pitch (level with each other ) then unclip any one of the 3 servo push rods.
By adjusting each link in turn, your swashplate should be level and the rotor head gap equal and swashplate level on all planes.
FlyBar Weight Adjustments:-
The FlyBar Weights can be moved further up the FlyBar to give a less sluggish response, but make sure you adjust both Weights equally on each FlyBar.
As your experience grows you may find that the weights are a hinderance in that case take them off!
Pitch Gauge General Guide
A pitch gauge in its basic form is simply a way to determine the pitch or angle of your blades, too little pitch will result in insufficient lift and of course the reverse is true.
Below are a few pictures showing a few pitches (Angles) of your blades.
Please note that the flybar acts as a horizontal guide for taking the pitch reading this is only shown in the first picture, use as a guide only.
To see a detailed pitch setting try How to use a pitch Gauge
The pitch Gauge shown above can be obtained here at Heliguy.com
Tail Motor:-
Click to enlarge a bit:-
Always check the two screws for tightness
Heat sinks available Here at heliguy.com
Please remember that both the main and tail motors will last longer if heat sinks are fitted, also never allow any of the blades to be prevented from spinning as this will can damage to both motors and the 4 in 1. (receiver)
Your receiver:-
The above right hand picture shows what will happen if your main blades are prevented from rotating, or in the event of a short circuit - to attempt a repair is useless as the damage has already been done to the components.
Unpacking your CP2
Please take great care when unpacking your CP2 otherwise you could easily end up throwing away the pin that keeps your canopy on,as well as your UK adapter.
Esky Manual:-
Exploded View
Click to enlarge then zoom
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The picture on the bottom right refers to a fixed pitch helicopter only (Such as the Esky HoneyBee or walkera 4 )
Joe
